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It’s springtime: Zagreb hits refresh 

04.04.2026.

Writes for BBC Travel, the Washington Post and many more. Follow her at @everthenomad

Anja Mutić

There’s a certain morning in Zagreb when you just know – spring has flipped the switch. One day it’s coats buttoned up and heads tucked in; the next, the city stretches, yawns and steps outside. Café terraces fill up before noon, sunglasses make their annual comeback and the hum of conversation spills onto the streets.

You can feel it walking up towards Strossmayer promenade, where the trees are just beginning to leaf out in that electric, almost translucent green. Below, rooftops glow in the soft sun, and the air carried that unmistakable scent of damp earth and possibility. It’s as if Zagreb collectively exhales. Windows fling open. Market stalls burst with radishes, herbs and freshly picked wild asparagus. Even footsteps seem lighter.

Spring in Zagreb isn’t loud or showy but rather, a gentle awakening. A shift in rhythm. You notice people lingering just a little longer over coffee, choosing park benches over sofas, swapping heavy thoughts for lighter ones. There’s a quiet optimism in the air – a sense that whatever felt stuck over winter is slowly, steadily thawing.

And maybe that’s the real magic of this season. It nudges us awake, too. To step outside. To look up. To begin again, softly.

TIP: Start your morning with a slow walk through Zagreb Botanical Garden – go early, before the crowds, and let the city (and yourself) wake up gently.