May is when greens take over – young cabbage (čimulice), Swiss chard (blitva) and new potatoes lešo bring a breath of Dalmatia to your plate. In Zagreb, štrukli go green too, filled with nettles or wild garlic. But if plants aren’t enough, grilling season is on. No yard where you can grill? No problem – Jarun and Bundek have free public grills; just get there early to reserve your spot. The scent of sizzling ćevapi is Zagreb’s unofficial spring anthem.